Pentadart Instructions
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Parts for the motor mount:
Cardboard centering rings
Engine hook
Motor tube
Kevlar cord
Shock cord
Motor block
Cut a 1/8" slit 1/4" from one
end of the motor tube.
Push engine hook into the slit
and wrap a piece of tape around
the middle of the tube and hook
Glue the motor block inside the
forward end of the tube. Push it in
until it stops at the engine hook.
Take the other centering ring,
feed one end of the Kevlar cord
through it leaving enough to lay
along the motor mount tube.
Glue the other centering ring
with cord on so they cover the
end of the motor hook. See
inset photo.
Once the mount is dry apply glue
fillets to all joints and the Kevlar
cord. This completes the motor
mount assembly.
Apply a layer of glue approximately
1.5"inside of the body tube end
where the motor mount is. Slide the
mount into the tube until the motor
mount tube is flush with the body
tube end. During the drying process
you should check the Kevlar cord
inside to make sure it doesn't get
glues to the wall of the body tube.
Cut out the tube marking guide and wrap it
around the body tube so approximately
1/4" of the marking guide is up from the
bottom of the tube. Make sure to line it up
so the motor hook DOES not align with
any of the fins. Mark the tube body at each
point on both sides of the marking guide.
Glue one of the centering rings
1/2" from the end of the non
motor block side of the tube.
Take the other end of the woven
Kevlar cord and one end of the
shock cord. Tie them in a
double knot. Then apply a few
drops of glue onto the knots to
strengthen them.
Part A Motor Mount Assembly.
Part B Main Body Tube Assembly.
Part C Fin Installation Assembly.
Thread the end of the shock
cord through the body tube.
At this point test fit the motor
mount in the end of the tube.
It should slide in with a little
resistance. Sand the edges of
the motor mount if needed.
Take one of the fins and glue it to the
main body tube so that its flush with
the end of the tube. Making sure you
keep it aligned along the mark on the
tube. You may lightly sand along the
spot on body tube where the glue will
be applied to help them adhere
together. Allow to dry.
Apply a thin layer of glue to the launch
lug and place it into the joint of one of
the fins away from the motor hook.
Making sure the bottom of the launch lug
is flush with the bottom of the main tube.
Allow this to dry then place a thin fillet of
glue to both sides of the launch lug.
Part D Nose Cone Attachments Assembly.
Take a marker and make a spot roughly in the
center of the nose cone as in the middle photo.
Take the screw eye insert it half way in and remove
it. Put a few drops of glue into the hole on the nose
cone then reinsert the screw eye all the way as in
the left photo. Allow to dry. Double knot the shock
cord through the screw eye. Place a few drops of
glue onto the knot as in the right photo. Allow
entire assembly to dry.
Assemble the included parachute as per the
instructions included in the parachute pack.

If a snap swivel is included tie the parachute
shroud lines to the hole in the snap swivel. Place a
small drop of glue on the knot for strength. Snap
swivel gets “snapped” onto the screw eye of the
nose cone.
Completed Kit.
For parachutes without a snap swivel just loop the
shroud lines approximately 1" through the screw
eye on the nose cone then grab the end of the
parachute and feed it through that loop pulling it
tight. Then place a drop if glue on it for strength.
Now join the sets of fin marks
to each other by using a nice
long level door frame or other
straight ruler.
Lay out the five fins so the grains
are all in the same direction.
Stack the fins together and lightly
sand all four edges one at a time
until the fins are all square.
Continue to glue the fins one at a time
allowing each to dry until you have all
five fins glued to the body tube. Set
aside and let it dry thoroughly. Apply
fillets to all the fin joints for added
strength.
Put a small amount of glue on the screw eye and
screw it into the wooden dowel, allow to dry. Place
glue around the wooden dowel and push it into the
hole on the bottom of the nose cone trying to get it
as flush with the bottom of the cone as possible.
Please note depending if you have one of the kits with the wooden dowel skip this step and proceed to the next one.
Proudly made in Michigan.